PUNTA ARENAS

Capital of the XII Region of Magallanes and the Chilean Antarctica. Nowadays, it has a population of 128.000 inhabitants approximately. Its economy is mainly based on the mining, hydrocarbons and coal, the cattle raising and the fishing industry, furthermore, it is the supply port for the large freighters that sail through the Strait, as well as it is the main operation center for the expeditions to the Antarctica.

The city was founded in 1848, when the population settled at the Fuerte Bulnes, was moved to this place called Sandy Point (Punta Arenosa), the name was printed by the English expeditions in the navigation charts.

The Fuerte Bulnes (Fort Bulnes) was not the proper place for the development of a permanent population and Mr. José Santos de Mardones, Governor and Master Sergeant, chose this place as it had wood, water, a larger port and a better climate to face the southern adversities.

Punta Arenas is located on the foothill of the Andean pre-cordillera and at the beginning of the plain. Its development as a colonial settlement was slow, mainly due to the fact that it was a place of relegation for army officers and criminals. In 1851, the officer J.M. Cambiaso leaded a bloody riot and killed the main authorities and destroyed the settlement.

The Government of the President Manuel Montt decided to keep this settlement in the Strait, and declared Magallanes as a zone of colonization by eliminating the prison character and sent Mr. Jorge Schythe as a Governor, who made the first climate records and agriculture tests.

However, the colony kept on being a prison until 1877. Its main resources came from the water and coal supply, the irregular traffic through the Strait and a growing activity of sea-lion and whale's hunting schooners that explored the island of the western Patagonia and the Antarctica.

Before the end of the century, more than 570.000 hectares of lands for the cattle raising had been bid, these had been adorned with main squares, the cemetery, the Opera theater and the mansions of the wealthy cattle breeders.


CITY TOUR IN PUNTA ARENAS

DOWNTOWN

The public buildings, the Club de la Unión and the main houses are located next to the Main Square and its surrounding streets. The houses have fine towers and different roofs, surrounded by transparent gardens in winter and lit by round lamps fixed along the main entrances. These mansions are surrounded by large parks where magnificent araucarias grow.
At the Main Square, the old trees with short foliage are around the pathways that converge at the Hernando de Magallanes Monument. The local residents and tourists come to this place to kiss the toe of the native, who is leant on the base of the stone monument. The legends reads: "Anyone who kiss the native's toe will come back to the city of Punta Arenas".

CERRO DE LA CRUZ (The Cross's Hill)

From the top of the hill, there is a panoramic view of the city, with its red, blue and yellow roofs, and its streets that go down to the Strait. Far at the distance, it is the Tierra del Fuego Island, the Monte Sarmiento and the southern area of the Brunswick Peninsula.
At first sight, it can be seen the remains of old vessels that ran aground from immemorial times.
Walking down Señoret Street up to the Colon Avenue, then turning to the left, it is the stone street that dates from the colonization time.
Two blocks up, by this street, it is the northern top of the Cerro de la Cruz, from which it is possible to observe the other half of the city. From here, it can be seen the Industrial area, the Barrio Hortícola, the duty-free zone; to the left, there is a lagoon that turns into skating rink in winter. Far in the distance, the skiing center can be seen with its open areas among the forest of the Cerro Mirador, just 8 kilometers from the city.

SALESIAN CHURCHES

The Main Cathedral and the Sanctuary María Auxiliadora stand among the Salesian Churches of the city.
The first church built by the Salesians was made of wood and was burnt in June 17, 1892, because of a fire, only 4 months after it had been inaugurated. Nine years later, it was rebuilt, this time it was made of brick, the first building made of this material in the city. The salesians themselves built it and devoted it to the Sacred Heart. Nowadays, it is the Cathedral of the city.
The Sanctuary of María Auxiliadora stands out for being bigger. Next to it, it is the Salesian Museum .

THE BRAUN-MENENDEZ REGIONAL MUSEUM

The historical Museum of Magallanes was inaugurated in February, 1983, in the magnificent Braun Menéndez Palace of Punta Arenas, which has important collections of objects that are true testimony of the man in the regional history.

MAGGIORINO BORGATELLO SALESIAN MUSEUM

This Museum is located at the end of the Bulnes Avenue and the beginning of Bories Street. It was created in 1893 by the Salesian Missionaries and it is kept thanks to the voluntary monetary contributions. It is very complete. There are samples of ethnology, history, flora and fauna; it also has some missionaries' works, native handicraft, fossils and petrified animals, tools used by the natives and pictures of the natives, mineralogy, etc.

INSTITUTO DE LA PATAGONIA (Institute of the Patagonia)

This Research Center includes different scientific and technological fields. The Institute brings the tourist the possibility to get information and learn about the science, culture and techniques of the Patagonia. Some of its facilities are a library, a botanical garden, handicraft and the "Museo del Recuerdo" (The Memorial Museum) that consists of a display of carts, machines and tools used in the pioneers' times; There is also a maritime pavilion, a typical house of the colonization time, an old garage, etc., with special pictorial exhibitions. The Institute is located at the 3.5 kilometer, to the north of the city.

DUTY-FREE SHOPPING CENTER (ZONA FRANCA)

The Duty-free shopping center sells all kind of imported items at very convenient prices, as they are tax-free. This is a stimulating element for the commercial development of the region.

THE CEMETERY

This place is characterized by the imposing mausoleums that show the privilege of some families in the past. For instance, the grave of Mr. José Menéndez, a smaller version of the monument in honor of the King Víctor Manuel in Rome.

FUERTE BULNES (FORT BULNES) AND THE PUERTO DEL HAMBRE (PORT FAMINE)

Both are located 60 kilometers to the south of Punta Arenas, and are visited for their historical importance. They were part of the first Spaniard Colony in the bank of the Strait of Magellan.
Nowadays the Fuerte Bulnes is a historical rebuilt of the Fort where Chile established the first settlement in the Patagonia and took possession of the Strait and its nearby lands (1843). It stands at the kilometer 60, Route 9 S, on the top of the Punta Santa Ana. It is one hour from Punta Arenas. The road is in good conditions and goes next to the Strait of Magellan. On the shore, some old vessels that have ran aground, can be seen.
Other interest place to visit is the Rinconada Bulnes, a small fishing town. In the kilometer 55 there is a fork to the Río San Juan, an excellent place for fishing and excursions. This place is on the right of the fork, about 7 kilometers away.
The road on the left leads to the Puerto del Hambre (Port Famine) and it is 2 kilometers from the fork. Puerto del Hambre is next to the bank of the Bahía Buena, at this place, the Captain Sarmiento de Gamboa founded the city Rey Don Felipe in March, 1854.
This attempt of Colonization had a tragic end: all the inhabitants died because of famine.
Some years later, the English Corsair, Sir Thomas Cavendish reached this place and found one only survivor at the place, whose name was Tome Hernández, who told him the tragic end of this old and first colony. Thomas Cavendish re-baptized this place as "Port Famine", which in Spanish means "Puerto del Hambre", its current name.

PENGUINS' COLONY AT THE SENO OTWAY

For its proximity to the city, it is one of the attractions that can be visited from Punta Arenas. It is an area of 80 hectares that extends along 2 kilometers of coast, from which it is possible to observe the colony of Magellan Penguins (Spheniscus Magallanicus). These birds reach 70cm of height and nest forming large groups and laying 1 or 2 eggs.
The penguins are the best birds adapted to the sea to the extent that have lost their flying capacity, their bodies are covered by feathers and their wings have turned into fins to swim.
This nesting place was in danger of extinction, but in 1990 the German School of Punta Arenas took its management in order to protect and preserve it, with resources supported by the World Wide Fund for Nature and the entry tickets.
Since 1993, the protection of the area was taken by the Fundación Otway (The Otway Foundation). In 1990, the colony had only 500 penguins. This figure has increased to 3.700 couples of Magellan Penguins that stay at this place between September and March.



PUERTO NATALES

It has a population of about 17.500 inhabitants. It was founded in 1911 and belongs to the municipality of Ultima Esperanza. It soon displaced Puerto Prat as a residential center and main port for the cattle raising production of the area.
It is on a the edge of a small slope located on the bank of the Canal Señoret (The Señoret Channel), opposite to the Patagonian Andes.
In the horizon, it is possible to observe the slim figure of the Sierra Prat, from where the Paine Massif and the Glaciers of the Southern Ice Field, can be seen.
Puerto Natales is the main center for the services of the intense cattle raising activities of the area. Many of its inhabitants work at the coal mines at the Río Turbio, in Argentina, and go back to the city during the weekends.
The tourist facilities have increased for the last years: it was inaugurated the Casino of Puerto Natales and a number of lodgings that range from five-star hotels to simple lodgings at family houses, were open.
There is also a large demand of tours to the main attractions including rental and sale of trekking equipment, for the number of daily visitors to the Torres del Paine and the Bernardo O'Higgins National Parks, the Cueva del Milodón (The Milodon Cave) and the Glaciers of the fjords in the area. Apart from this, it also offers international bus services to Calafate and Río Gallegos, in Argentina.

THE CUEVA DEL MILODON (THE MILODON CAVE)

It is 26 kilometers from Puerto Natales, located at the Cerro Benítez. From there it is possible to observe the Fjord Eberhard and the Seno de Ultima Esperanza (The Ultima Esperanza Inlet). There is also an information center for visitors, where it is a small Museum that keeps a wide information related to the cavern, from this place it starts a pathway that leads to the cavern (Height: 30m; Width: 70m; Depth: 200m).
At this place, the Captain Eberhard found in 1896, a piece of skin in good conditions, along with some bones, hair and excrement of a prehistoric animal known as the Milodón.
Its figure, rebuilt in fiber glass, looks small in the cavern.
Because of this singular fact, the English Hesketh Prichard explored the Patagonia in 1902 in order to find a living Milodón.
In the area there are other smaller caverns, some of them with stalactite, where some remains of human settlement dating from 12.000 years have been found.

VILLA CERRO CASTILLO

It is located 60 kilometers from the city of Puerto Natales and it is the main town of the Province of Torres del Paine, created around the limit of the big estancia, Cerro Castillo, founded in 1906 by the Sociedad Explotadora de Tierra del Fuego. It has the typical structure of these places, with sheds for shearing, stockyards and sheep baths, located to the east end. The cattle raising facilities were built facing the wind direction, so that it can take away the bad odors and the dust raised by the constant movement of animals.
The population, offices and warehouses are located to the west end; farther in a row are the houses of the foremen and higher employees, to finally end with the Manager House, where today it stands the Hostería EL PIONERO, which has a beautiful garden and a small farm fenced by windbreaks.
The new constructions turned the estancia into a town. However, this keeps the cattle raising tradition. It has a First-aid station, telephone, post-office, accommodation, gas station, restaurant, museum, etc.
In summertime it is possible to enjoy the Chilean Rodeo, the folkloric parties and traditions of the countryside. At this place there are some estancias that offer the visitors a display of activities like the drive of the cattle, outdoor asados, handling of sheep dogs and activities more exclusives like to participate along with the country men and mountain guides in their daily activities.

The border and the permanent Cross Río Don Guillermo are not far from here. This is the best place to cross to the city of Calafate, in Argentina.
On the other side of the Argentinean border, the Sociedad Explotadora Tierra del Fuego had large estancias that joined the Chilean ones, and had a un departure port in Bories.
In the 1950's, these estancias were sold because of the prohibition stated by Juan Domingo Perón in Argentina, for those foreigner who had lands next to the border

THE TORRES DEL PAINE NATIONAL PARK

It was created in 1959, and nowadays has 242.242 hectares. In 1978, the UNESCO declared it as the World Biosphere Reservation. It is located between the Andean Cordillera and the Patagonian steppe and reaches heights that range between the 20 and the 3.050 meters.
It is under the administration of the CONAF (National Forestry Corporation). It has three main access routes: the Sarmiento Headquarters, the Laguna Amarga and the Laguna Azul and by sea through the Río Serrano in combination with the vessels that sail through the Ultima Esperanza Inlet. It has a changeable weather, during the sunny days, the winds may reach 120 km/ph. It does not rain or snow as people may think, the average precipitation is 700mm in a year.

Formation of the Paine Massif: 12 millions of years ago, a thick layer of sedimentary rock was formed, later, the magma would penetrate under it. When the magma was cold, the hard granite was formed. This, and the high tectonic pressures, made the massif to rise over the sea level.
During the glacial times, the ice fields covered the massif and on their way they dig under the sedimentary soft rock. When the ice melted, the gray granite was left uncovered, crowned in its highest parts by the dark sedimentary rock, which was not covered by the glaciers.

Hydrography: The waters come mainly from the melting of the glaciers existing at the Southern Ice Field, located within the Park. The Río Paine, the most important at the Park, originates from the Glacier Dickson and goes through a group of lakes, located at different places and connected by three waterfalls: the Paine, Salto Grande and Salto Chico. The river flows into the Lago Toro (20.200 meter-high), which is drained by the Río Serrano.
There are also other lakes and lagoons of closed watersheds that drain by filtration or evaporation like the Lago Sarmiento and the Laguna Amarga. These have a high salinity and concentrate the most varied flora and fauna.

Flora: There are four well-marked communities within the Park:
Pre-Andean Underbrush: It grows mainly in the area of the Lago Sarmiento, the Salto Grande and the Nordenskjold overlook. It is adapted to the cold and the drought and it is formed by shrubs like the "mata barrosa" and the calafate, related to the herbaceous like the coirón (broom sedge)
Magellan Forest: Deciduous: Mainly composed by the Lenga, a kind of regional oak, (Nothofagus pumilio) which appears in two ways; thickets associated to herbaceous like the "capachitos" and orchids (close to the Laguna Azul, laguna Amarga and the Pehoé camping area; or Lenga and Coigue (Nothofagus betuloides) forests in the areas of the Lago Grey, the Pingo Valley, Glacier Grey and the French Valley.
Magellan Tundra or Pampa (Magellan plains): it is mainly formed by the moss.
Desert of Height: It has a vegetal layer not very developed and open, with small and isolated shrubs that lessen until they disappear as the height increases (600 - 800meter-high).

Fauna: There are about 25 mammals species, among which the most outstanding are the pumas, the grey and red foxes, skunks and the well known - guanacos (Lama guanicoe). The latter move alone or in groups, and can be mainly found at the piece of land located between the Lagos Sarmiento and Nordenskjold, at the Laguna Amarga, the Lago Azul, and in winter, next to the Lago Pehoé.
The birds are over 115 species: there are condors and eagles all over the Park; black-necked swans, Coscoroba swans, flamingos, red-gartered coot (Fulica armillata), Great Grebe (Podiceps major) and a large variety of ducks at the lakes and lagoons, a number of Upland geese (Chloephaga picta) in the plains and shy ñandúes at the shrub areas.